High concern: potential health risks
- Triphenyl Phosphate: Due to insufficient safety data and concerns about possible genetic toxicity, this ingredient will be prohibited in cosmetics.
Fragrance allergens under stricter control
- Benzyl Salicylate: Still permitted, but now subject to strict concentration limits and mandatory labeling when present above very low thresholds.
- Citral: Also allowed, but with revised maximum levels depending on product type, reflecting sensitization risks.
These updates reinforce transparency for consumers, especially those with sensitivities to fragrance allergens.
Oral care ingredients
- Water-soluble zinc salts (e.g., in toothpaste and mouthwash):
- Safe within defined limits
- Lower thresholds for young children
- Specific caps depending on product type
Fragrance components
- Acetylated vetiver oil: Allowed but restricted to controlled concentrations, particularly in leave-on and spray products.
These measures ensure commonly used ingredients remain safe across different exposure scenarios.
New Rules for Hair Dye Ingredients
Several colorants—previously unregulated—are now subject to strict limits:
- HC Blue No. 18: Maximum concentration capped at 0.35%
- HC Yellow No. 16: Different limits for oxidative vs. non-oxidative dyes
- HC Red No. 18: Also restricted depending on formulation type
- Hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine derivatives: Limited to 2%
All are considered safe only within these boundaries, and products must include clear warnings about allergic reactions.
From Prohibited to Permitted: Regulatory Reclassification
One notable shift involves Ammonium Silver Zinc Aluminium Silicate, which moves from a banned substance to an allowed preservative under specific conditions.
This reflects how evolving scientific evidence can both tighten and relax restrictions.
Impurities and Trace Limits Matter
Even minor contaminants are now under scrutiny. For example, a specific impurity (DnHexP) in a UV filter must not exceed a very low threshold (10 ppm).
This signals a broader regulatory trend: not just ingredients, but also trace substances are being controlled.
Timeline for Compliance
The new rules won’t apply overnight:
- From January 2027: Non-compliant products can no longer enter the EU market
- From mid-2028: Non-compliant products must be fully withdrawn
This transition period gives manufacturers time to reformulate and adapt.
Why This Matters
For manufacturers, these updates mean reformulation may be necessary, labeling requirements are expanding and safety data must be robust and up to date.
For consumers, the impact is simpler: safer products, better ingredient transparency, reduced risk of irritation or long-term effects.
The Bigger Picture
The EU continues to lead globally in cosmetic safety standards, combining scientific review with precautionary regulation. As ingredient scrutiny deepens—including allergens, dyes, and even trace impurities—the industry is moving toward greater accountability and transparency.
In short, the message is clear: if an ingredient’s safety isn’t certain at all levels, its use will be limited—or eliminated.
