How to Substantiate a Waterproof Claim

Waterproof claims in cosmetics, whether for makeup or sun protection products, are highly appealing to consumers. However, regulatory authorities require robust scientific evidence to substantiate these claims. Here, we explore the key test methods and regulatory guidance for substantiating waterproof claims.

Understanding Waterproof Claims

A waterproof claim implies that a product remains effective even after exposure to water. For makeup, this usually pertains to the product’s adherence and appearance, while for sun protection products, the claim must demonstrate maintained efficacy in protecting against UV radiation after water exposure.

Testing Methods for Waterproof Makeup

1. Resistance to Water:

Waterproof makeup products, such as mascaras or foundations, are evaluated by simulating exposure to water (e.g., rain or splashes). Key methods include:

• Immersion Tests: Panels apply the product, immerse their face or hands in water, and are assessed for product integrity.
• Rub Tests: After water exposure, the product’s adherence is tested through rubbing. A decrease in smudging or fading confirms waterproof properties.
• High-Humidity Chambers: Products are exposed to humidity and evaluated for stability.

2. Consumer Panel Testing:

Consumers evaluate the product after exposure to water, providing qualitative feedback on its performance.

Testing Methods for Waterproof Sun Products

1. ISO 18861:2018:

This standardized method determines water resistance by measuring the SPF before and after water immersion. Typically, the product is applied to the skin, followed by immersion for specific intervals (e.g., 20 or 40 minutes). If the SPF retention is at least 50% of the original value, the claim is substantiated.

2. Water Immersion and Sweat Simulation Tests:

Sun protection products may undergo tests simulating swimming or sweating to ensure their efficacy under real-world conditions.

Regulatory Guidance

Regulatory frameworks vary by region but universally require evidence-backed claims.

• EU Regulations: Under the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, all claims must align with the Common Criteria for Claims. Substantiation must be supported by reliable and reproducible test results.

Conclusion

Whether for makeup or sun protection, waterproof claims require rigorous validation through appropriate testing methods. Adhering to regional regulatory standards and ensuring test results are robust and reproducible is crucial to substantiating these claims effectively. By following standardized protocols, brands can provide credible and consumer-trusted products.

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