High-Purity UV-A Filters and Natural Oil Gelling Agents for Modern Sunscreens

A new development in UV-A filters is bringing a high-purity, water-soluble ingredient closer to wider use in cosmetic formulations. The ingredient has achieved the USP 44 quality standard and is backed by patented purification technology. A Korean patent has been secured as well. FDA approval is still required for finished sunscreen products.

A recognized US quality standard

The high-purity, water-soluble UV-A filter now meets USP 44 quality standards. This standard covers the official US requirements for chemical purity, safety, and quality for ingredients used in over-the-counter sunscreen products.
The development comes as formulators in the US seek access to more modern UV filters that are already available in markets such as South Korea and Europe. Regulatory barriers have created a formulation gap between these regions.
K-beauty has helped push sun care toward lighter, invisible, skin care-like formulations. At the same time, many US companies have continued working with an ingredient lineup that is decades old.
The UV-A filter has been used in some FDA-approved sunscreens in the US since 2006. It is not broadly authorized as an active ingredient under over-the-counter sunscreen rules. The USP 44 standard now provides a recognized US quality benchmark for the ingredient.
Consumers increasingly expect sun care products to provide strong protection without the heavy, greasy feel or white cast associated with traditional SPF products. As formulators modernize sun care formulas, access to another UV filter provides an additional formulation option.

Expanding oil gelling ingredients

Alongside the UV filter development, the portfolio of naturally derived oil gelling agents is being expanded. These ingredients include Dextrin Palmitate and Stearoyl Inulin.
They are used to control oil viscosity and improve the stability of creams, balms, and sunscreens. One existing grade has already obtained COSMOS approval, making it suitable for clean beauty formulations.
Several new variants of Dextrin-based thickeners are being developed. Each offers a different balance of gel strength, softness, and transparency.
One variant is designed to provide a softer texture than the firmer existing grade. Another variant is said to maintain high transparency while providing a gentle, smooth feel on the skin.
A further variant offers thixotropic properties. This means it can flow when squeezed but become firm when left still.
These ingredients are still in the R&D phase. They reflect a goal of offering a full toolbox for brands seeking a K-beauty feel, with greater control over texture, transparency, and stability.